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Pics and unsolicited praise from Steve

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Photoshop? Or not? Only Steve knows...


Steve writes: Bike rides awesome.  Telepathic is the term I would use.  I'm cornering noticeably faster than what I now call my long chainstay Paradox.  Those same corners that I used to sort of plow/understeer through the bike just carves through.  No pedal strikes either.  Great traction and I love how (with the dropper and short seat tube) I can get back over the rear wheel.  I rode the east side of High Desert Trail System today, which is basically cross country with a bit of trail.

I am still not used to pictures of bikes with the saddle slammed down. Tried
to talk Steve into going stealth on this sucker but he already had the non-stealth.

By popular request - geometry geekery for Steve's frame

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A few people have bugged me to do a geometry post on Steve's bike from yesterday. I've been slacking on those lately because getting ready to move, dealing with a 2 year old and a pregnant wife, and trying to survive the horrible air quality on the Wasatch front has taken up most of my time lately.

But I can't say no to my "fans" (hang your heads in shame!) so here we go.




-69 HTA (assuming a 120mm fork with some sag - Steve can run up to 150mm if he wants), 66.4cm front center, and 97mm of trail.
-That's a 72 degree seat angle and 61.5cm/24.2" effective toptube for those who don't want to figure things out using front center.
-31.7cm/12.5" BB height assuming big fat 2.5 tires. A bit lower with smaller rubber.
-41cm chainstays (actual, 40.5 effective) and clearance for a 2.4+" tire (a DHF will easily clear with the wheel pulled back a bit). I tried to talk Steve into letting me mess with the driveline since this is a SS-specific frame and he doesn't need/want a bashguard, but he opted to be a little more normal. Otherwise we'd have done 40cm or something.
-Built for a tapered, 120-150mm fork with a tapered steerer and a 30.9 dropper post. I tried to talk him into a stealth but no dice - he already has a non-stealth post and it's hard to argue that a little less visual clutter is worth $300. Note that I usually do 31.6 for droppers but it's just as easy for me to do 30.9 if that's the size you prefer.
-To allow full insertion of the post and get enough tire clearance, I offset the seat tube forward onto the downtube - so on this frame the seat tube and BB shell never meet. A supertherm downtube provides plenty of beef to handle the load.

Steve picked out a really neat avocado-y green color with a low/satin gloss that looks much cooler in real life than in pictures, too.



Quick pic for Gus

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The Minnesota singletrack slayer... ready for powdercoat.




Yes...

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...I still occasionally get asked to build something with rim brake mounts. It's starting to be hard to remember where they need to go now, though, so I'm always digging back through one of my notebooks to figure out where to put the studs. Funny, when I started doing this disc brakes were practically unheard of outside of DH. I think I did maybe a couple of disc bikes in my entire first year of building.

Here we have 90's vintage braking... with some 90s style paint to match (I only built the boring black fork, though, to be fair) and a nice looong early 90s style stem... you could roll by a fine young thing on this bike and use your best 90s pickup line...


2 post Friday! Random pictures for Jason

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Not much to say, but I'll try to use the captions to make a few of my trademark bon mots and keep you guys entertained at work.

BB welded in... nothing clever comes to mind

Um, still got nothin. The hole at the end of the slot looks weird to me in this picture, not sure why.

No wittiness but a story: this is the pencil I use to mark the tubing butts. Thanks Dr. Bart, and thanks, random kid who dropped the pencil outside Bean's preschool! The key here is that carbon does not cause any powdercoat problems. Ink (sharpies)? Problems. 

What a tube looks like fresh outta the mill. I have a lot of random scars on my hands from these damn things.

BB cluster. Aaaand... total fail on the bon mot front. 

Jason's frame... done

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I am on a weird streak of building mostly road bikes (ok, dirt road bikes, but still) and everyone seems to want to use a zillion things attached to their frame - so my water bottle boss supply is almost toast! Jason used up 10 on just his frame and there'll be another 6 on the fork once I get it done... yikes, that's a lotta bottle bosses. But he'll be able to carry a lot of crap.

The hydrationmobile

Geometry breakdown is:
-71 HTA and 74 STA. I used a pretty long rake (50mm) fork to push the front wheel out a bit to help deal with Jason's annoying fender-overlap issues. With 40c tires, that means trail in the high 60s and front center of 61cm.
-The STA is a degree steeper than Jason usually rides so that he can use a setback post for a bit more cush.
-Chainstays are 45.5cm - nice and long for pannier clearance and stability on those long straight dirt roads that disappear on the horizon.
-BB height is nice and low at 265mm (again assuming big tires). Not great for a crit, but awesome for a long cruise or even a long hard effort out in the boonies. Without full on MTB tires, you're not going to get to a lean angle where hitting a pedal on the dirt is an issue in most cases so low and long is where it's at for this kind of bike.
-Clearance for 40c tires, fenders, bags, 3 water bottles, and the kitchen sink.
-Tubing is mostly Supertherm and Verus. Touring/gravel bikes get the crap beaten out of them and carry heavy loads so super thin/light tubes are a waste here. Frame is still a respectable 2050g, though.
-Paragon low mounts in swanky stainless. I love these dropouts for this kind of bike - they keep the caliper out of the way of the racks and bags really nicely.

Long story short - a bike for getting away from it all.

Temps in the 50s = sad skis

Brief rant: Fatbikes are not mudbikes

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I just randomly saw this video of someone dressed as a clown riding a fatbike. Not a very exciting video, really, and the clown schtick is, well, lame, but it's fine as far as it goes.

But here's what really drove me nuts: clearly, the snow on the trail is basically slush. You can see mud in many of the shots and while there's no direct evidence in the video, it's likely they rode on/through a lot of mud during the ride/shoot.

Guys, gals: riding in mud is bad for the trail. It's bad for your drivetrain. And it's really bad when a land manager goes for a hike and sees a bunch of big ruts left from bikes riding through the mud. Being on a fatbike does not earn you a free pass to shred the mud.

I see the same thing on our locals trails here in SLC - people seem to think that the presence of snow ANYWHERE on the trail means it's ok to ride their fatbike on said trail. Well, it's not -just like it's not ok to ride your regular mountain bike there. If the ground is frozen, or the whole trail is snow - anything goes. If it's 55 degrees and slush/mud/sun - go for a road ride and wait until it gets snowier OR drier and you can ride whatever bike you like best.

Riding in mud and trashing the trail is... for clowns. Don't be a clown.

Coming soon...WW Jerseys Are Back!

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Yes, I'm finally doing jerseys again. Cost will be $85+shipping (generally about $10 in the USA) and availability will be sometime in early summer. Made in the USA, baby! To order, scroll down below the image.




Size



Separated at birth?

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I am really tired of putting water bottle bosses on/in things now. Jason's fork has 12 threaded mounting points (on top of the 14 on the frame)... maybe someone will want a fixie or a BMX soon so I get a break.


Pics from Rob

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I built Rob 2 nearly-identical bikes, one for traveling, with couplers and super beefed up everything (Supertherm!) to TSA-proof it, and another with lighter stuff for racing and riding closer to home.

Skinnies for touring, but she'll take 2.3s if Rob wants to go offroad

The "serious" bike. 


It's NEVER too early...

Super Snotfactory!

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I'm in awful-stuffed-up-dizzy-weak mode today so didn't accomplish anything. Tomorrow might not be great either. I'm capable of answering the phone or emails, though, so if you've got a burning need to chat about chainstay length, I am your man!

For those with frames at the powdercoater: they are way behind. I am hoping they will have some stuff on Friday. We'll see.

Help a (my) brother out!

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My brother is only sort of a bike guy and he bought a bike that is much too big for him (he's about 6'1") because it was a "good deal".

Anyway, he can't fit on and doesn't need a Specialized Camber Elite 29er in size XXL (that's a 23" frame!) so you can help him out and buy it (link goes to Craigslist ad). He wants $1200 but I'm guessing you could talk him down some.

Geometry specs are here. The bike is all stock, with only maybe 100 miles on it, and you can see the parts spec here (pedals have been upgraded to clipless/platform 2-sided deals).

I can vouch for his reputation and that you won't get ripped off, and to sweeten the deal, I'll throw in a brand new set of Stan's ZTR Arch EX 29" wheels for an additional $400 if you're interested. Contact him directly on the phone at 575 496 4660 or email me and I can put you in touch with him. 

Bikes on the way...

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Yep, this is how they get to Fedex (in this case it's Angus and Carey's rigs). In Portland or Boulder I probably would not get a second glance from anyone, here in SLC I almost cause people to drive off the road rubbernecking at the crazy person with the weird bike. I am sort of planning (pending SR65 being open by then, no way am I riding up Parleys) to move a small amount of stuff to Park City on the cargo bike, just for extra smug yuppie bike jerk points.

Barely visible Subaru scoffs, "You are not car free, sellout"

Vote! What stupid project should Walt build in 2014?

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I have a deal with Sarah (and myself) - I get to build myself one bike a year. I've maybe fudged that rule a few times but I generally stick with it pretty well.

In recent history, in 2012 I built myself a cargo bike (which, because it was a test bike to check equipment after the move to UT, I decided didn't count) and Stupidmobile (the stupidmobile build lasted into 2013, really). In 2013 I reassembled (with very expensive parts) my 6" travel 29er, rode it a bit and decided I didn't want or need that much travel in northern UT, and then parted it back out. I also played with my 4" travel FS bike and built some new chainstay assemblies for it. With all the churn there I figured I was at my bike limit.

But 2014 is a new year. Of course, we're having a daughter in June and we're moving to Park City in 2 or 3 weeks... so there's a lot going on, but I am hoping to still find time to build myself something fun and a little bit wild/weird.

Maybe not THAT weird.

That's where you come in. I need ideas. Keep in mind that:

-I have a very fun hardtail and a very fun XC full suspension bike that I have niggling complaints about but am not all that excited to replace.

-I rarely ride road bikes and have an "old man" flat bar road bike for those rare occasions.

-I only ride fixies on the track and I sold my track bike when we moved to UT from CO. There is not currently a track here. Also I am perhaps the world's worst track rider.

-The cargo bike works fine and there is no way I have room for another one in a 550 sq ft. shop. It's already in the background of every picture, ever, from in there.

-I've determined that I don't have enough really gnar trails to ride in the PC area to justify a long travel setup of any kind. Plus I have a 6" frame that I could put back together if I changed my mind.

-Park City has a metric ton of groomed winter trails that are generally open to bikes. I also need a bike that can be used to pull a mower for the new huge stupid yard without damaging the turf too much - fatbike of some kind? But a rigid fatbike is kinda boring. I do those all the time. We're looking for weird here...

-I've been doing lots of building full suspension parts and have entertained the thought of doing an FS bike for Knards or for 26" fat tires. Combine this with a custom headshok fatbike fork perhaps? That would peg the weird meter pretty well as I pulled a mower around the lawn in my wife beater (or UV-protective long sleeves) while drinking a beer... but might also weigh a ton and not be much fun to ride. Having only ridden rigid fatbikes I'm not sure it makes any sense to do suspension if you're riding on actual snow - and I've got other bikes for dry trails.

-Maybe I need to build a kids bike? Something that can grow with the little one and work with multiple wheel sizes, maybe? Problem is that Bean isn't even 2 and doesn't much care for his current balance bike, so it might just gather dust.

-36er? For all that I seem to be the main guy building these, I don't own one. That's probably because I'm a little too small for one, and because they take up an amazing amount of space. Maybe I need to go big...

-A road bike, just to attract the deep-pocketed dentist-bike crowd? Problem is I'd hardly ride it and the build kit needed to impress that kind of customer would cost me a fortune.

-Tandem? Sarah would kill/maim/divorce me but maybe Bean would be big enough to ride it with me in 7-10 years.

-Recumbent? Swing bike? Muni? These are all terrible ideas, probably. No offense to the recumbent swing bikers out there.

-Something else? Get creative and tell me your ideas. It has to be at least moderately practical for living in a mountain town and not require $10k worth of obscure parts.

Fattie in FL

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Miguelito is stuck in FL for work for weeks at a time and there's no snow for the fattie - but apparently it's fun on dry trails too.

Strava on a fatbike?!?

A new way to pay

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For those folks who are annoyed by sending checks to pay for their new bike (or just pay your buddy back for a few brews) - check out Dwolla.com.

I am not associated with them in any way, but it has driven me crazy for years that credit card and paypal fees are still 2.5%+ when the entire transaction is being done by a computer with nary a human in sight. The same fees, basically, that everyone was paying in the days of snail mail, and it seems a little odd that the efficiencies of modern technology couldn't bring them down. I'm guessing it costs a couple of cents to process an ordinary transaction, plus a few more cents to insure money on deposit and defend against fraud. So charging $5 on a $150 transaction is highway robbery.

Enough ranting. I've just signed up but I've heard good things, so check it out if you're tired of dealing with checks and/or paying credit card fees.


Fattie in it's correct habitat

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Nuts to this fatties on dry trails in FL stuff! The winter this year has been epic for a lot of folks in the US so here's Carey's bike newly assembled and being ridden as intended. Studded Dillingers?! Cool.

If anyone is interested in the geometry, please let me know and I'll do a "Walt's take on Fattie Geometry" post.



The Fat Geometry Post

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As requested by a whole 3 people!

In order to make things a little easier to organize, I'm just going to go through Carey's frame geometry and make some comments about what we did to make it fat-specific as opposed to his XC bike. Please note that all of this assumes you are going to ride on *snow* or other soft surfaces. If you like to ride your fattie on dry trails, that's great, but designing for that is an entirely different thing.
Comparo

Without further ado:

-70.5 head tube angle and 44mm of fork offset for an approximate trail number of 86mm (remember that tire sizes and tire pressure can change this significantly when we're talking about fatbikes). ETT is 596mm and front center is 634mm.

Essentially this is just an XC-ish trail number (though a little on the high side). Fatbikes don't tend to achieve super high speeds regularly when ridden on snow so going super slack is only going to cause the front end to wander around at low speeds (which they do regularly achieve) with no corresponding payoff. In many cases you'll need to hold a pretty tight line to avoid falling off the packed section of trail into the unconsolidated snow - so low speed wandering is not good.

-65mm BB drop for BB height of 300mm/12"(assuming 4.5" tires at low pressure).

Unlike a dry-trails bike, you'll rarely strike a pedal on a rock or log, or pedal through a corner at a steep lean angle. So fatbike BBs can be relatively low. But there's also some trail where you're on the packed section in a trench, or riding in deeper/softer snow, and you'll be dipping your feet/hitting your pedals on the higher snow on both sides. Luckily this is mostly going to be softer snow so in general you can pedal through it and leave "footprints" on both sides. If the snow gets really deep you're going nowhere anyway so there's no reason for a super high BB for pedal clearance, in general. Here again, we're basically doing an XC bike type number.

Stud fake-out

-45cm (actual) and 44.5cm (effective) chainstay length. In this case we probably could have gone a little shorter but there was some debate about what drivetrain and tires to run (we had committed to 170mm rear spacing before 190mm hubs were available) so I was conservative and left them a little on the long side. They could easily come down by 10-20mm if using a 1x drivetrain (which Carey is). Some people really prefer the feeling of a shorter rear end and think that they get better traction when pedaling. Others find a short rear end makes it harder for them to achieve the correct weight balance between wheels. I'm personally a short rear end person.

Keep in mind that the advantages of short chainstays (wheelies and manuals, bunnyhopping logs, etc) are pretty irrelevant when riding on snow in general. In most cases you'll be keeping the wheels on the ground. So this is a matter of personal preference as much as anything. On the fence? I'd recommend some slider or rocker dropouts so you can adjust 20mm and see what you like best (or run as a singlespeed if you're a crazy person!) Shorter than about 43cm chainstays aren't very feasible unless you're willing to let me start doing very weird stuff with the drivetrain.

-Clearance for 4.5" tires. Ah, the tire size question. Some people will say that fitting a Bud/Lou is mandatory to have any fun at all. Others are riding snow on their normal 2" XC tires. Some honesty with yourself will be helpful here-  are you going to run around in the woods and have an adventure, not necessarily on a packed down trail? Go as big as you can and live with the restrictions on hubs/chainline/cranks (essentially you'll need to go 190mm or do weird drivetrain stuff with 170) and extra tire weight/cost. If you're going to ride packed trails/groomed stuff or snowpacked roads, you may not want or need the 5" tires and you'll have a lot more options for drivetrain parts and such. In Carey's case we split the difference - the 4.5" Dillingers are pretty close to the chain in the lowest gear and the frame has plenty of clearance for them - but not enough for a Bud/Lou.


-Standard QR dropouts/hubs. With 4.5" of 5psi rubber squirming around it's hard to make the case that through axles are useful for a fatbike, but they are popping up on them anyway, of course. I'm happy to build for whatever axle standard you want but for all around fatbiking there is really nothing wrong with QRs and nothing to gain with a through axle unless you weigh 400 pounds. Then again, it's sometimes a good idea to follow the industry lead if you don't want to get stuck trying to find replacement parts in 10 years. Unfortunately nothing has really settled in for fatbikes yet so when you buy one, you have to accept that your hub/axle choice may be obsolete in a year. Boo.

-Non suspension corrected. There aren't many options other than Lefties right now for fat bikes though I'm sure some stuff will pop up this fall. Personally, I don't care much about suspension when riding on snow as the surface isn't super rough in general but if you're riding on stuff where people have postholed and then it's frozen over or something - might be nice. Carey isn't really tall enough to make a Lefty work well here anyway IMO so it's rigid. Someone needs to have me build them a headshok front end at some point...but they will need to be tall enough to have the bar height work out (probably 6'2" or so and up unless you like your bars really high!)

-A little extra standover from curved toptube. When you put your foot down on dry trails, it usually doesn't sink into the ground and make you land on your toptube/fall over. Usually. On snow it often does so a little extra standover is nice. For folks who want to do crazy expedition riding/racing, of course, this means less room for your frame bag and stuff inside the triangle.




I am now officially old

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My last (quite decent, actually) cheap pump finally died when I accidentally left it under the mill table and then lowered the knee on it. It was time anyway, I think - gauge no longer worked, it would suddenly lose head pressure and you'd slam the handle down and bottom it out, etc.

But now I feel old, because I looked at the cheap pumps, and I looked at the Silca, and I couldn't stop myself. We all get there eventually, I guess.

Pregnant lady townie desperately needed air, too. WW road frame #1 from 2004.

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